Domaine Glinavos Vlahiko

domaine glinavos vlahiko

Domaine Glinavos Vlahiko
Varietals: Vlahiko & Bekari
Region: Epirus, Greece
Year: 2009
Price: ~ $22
Retailer: Lou Wine Shop

I don't know what happened to me as a kid that made me so obsessed with all things sour, but whatever it was, well, it happened. And now we all have to deal with it. I say "we" because as my reader, you are subjected to what could be called "too many" strikingly acidic wines. But I can't help it! Just like I couldn't help chewing on sourgrass I'd find at the softball field, eating berries my father told me weren't ripe, or stealing lemons from a neighbor's yard to suck on &/or use to create natural highlights because Seventeen Magazine LIED TO ME AND TOLD ME THAT WAS POSSIBLE.

I wish with all my heart this was a bait and switch, but it's not. It's a warning to bust out the Tagamet because apparently I am hellbent on giving us all Acid Reflux Disease, which judging by the Larry the Cable Guy commercials doesn't seem so bad. He rides a lot more jet skis than I do. (This isn't a first time thought. I tried to find it, but I had a series of very dark tweets years ago where I made fun of Larry the Cable Guy and then descended into the realization that that dude was way more successful than I will probably ever be, and ended up deciding I respect him for his, albeit totally lame, hustle. I told you it was dark!)

The Domaine Glinavos Vlahiko is a lot of tart. It's vibrant with some spice, and is uncomplicated. It tastes like daydrunkenly dancing in a friend's sun-drenched living room right before spring turns into summer. It's warm enough to be in shorts, but still temperate enough for no one to know you decided to try using Tom's Natural Deodorant for a month (before eventually returning back to your daily dose of underarm aluminum). And yeah, you're a good dancer, but you can't fucking waltz. You're not complex. But you've got moves and you know how to move 'em. Your crush is definitely impressed as you're flowing along, inexplicably turning each near stumble into a smooth transition into some variation of something you saw on a YouTube of SoulTrain when you were stoned.

Although it tastes like any day in May in Echo Park as a twenty-something, the bouquet has hints of a really expensive leather jacket your dad wore into a cigar parlor. It's still bright with fruit on the nose, I don't want you thinking this is some Cabernet or something. But there is a maturity to it that you just can't have as a twenty-four year old barista two-stepping between indie-pop and Drake.

All in all, I really want to spend more time with this wine.
And I don't want to get old with it.

I want to be young with it forever, dancing like crazy and looking into the future like we could one day afford our own leather jackets.

Tasting Notes: Rusty cherry color. Red currant, tangerine, leather and tobacco on the nose. Tart, unripe, bing cherries on the palate with notes of forest foliage and salty tannins. Velvety texture and a nice finish that keeps you thirsty for more. 

Ross Test: Pass

Julien Courtois "Ancestral"

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Julien Courtois "Ancestral"
Varietals: Côt, Gamay & Gascon
Region: Loire, France
Year: 2012
Price: ~$30
Retailer: Lou Wine Shop

It's interesting when your hobby becomes your job. It is so fun and exciting and gratifying, and it is challenging and exhausting, just like you always knew it would be. And then there is this part where you find yourself uninspired and frustrated, because that thing you used to do to relax and be creative is now your job.

But you have to get back to that thing; that thing that made you laugh when no one was around, that thing that took weight off your shoulders no one else could, that thing you couldn't stop doing if you tried, that thing you did for no one but yourself, that thing that gave you purpose before you knew you had a purpose.

And here we are. I couldn't be more predictable if I tried with a Gamay blend. It's like I've lit a bunch of fancy-ass candles, put on Getz/Gilberto and am leading myself to bed to try to rekindle a dwindling romance...

AND IT WORKS!

Julien Courtois' "Ancestral" has me feeling more than satisfied, entirely in love all over again, and convinced that my relationship with wine will last forever.

It's got a mouth on it; acerbic and a little dirty. There's definitely a bite to it, but it is very smooth. Its acidity walks a tight rope of savory tension that leaves you wanting more. This is not a shallow Gamay that you drink before dinner and never think about again. This has a smokey delicious depth to it I want to swim in forever. 

Tasting Notes: Cranberry and black cherry on the nose, with some hints of melted Red Vines. On the palate, there's very tart cranberry and red currant, resting upon a bed of savory smoke. There is this umami-ness to it too, and the mouthfeel is very "freshly laundered white t-shirt." Nicely balanced considering the high acidity. 

Ross Test: Delicious!

On Bon Appétit: Why You Shouldn't Worry About Sulfites

Why You Shouldn't Worry About Sulfites

You're probably not allergic to them, and they're not causing your red wine headaches. So why does everyone freak out about them? Let me tell you all about how the sulfite scare happened and how there's actually way more sulfites in foods than in wines. 

This piece means a lot to me, and I'm really proud of how well it was received within the wine community. Since usually the reactions I get are from people who are commenting on the internet with no knowledge on the subject, who really didn't even read the damn thing, it is very rewarding to have people I admire in my industry react positively. Wine professionals have to battle the sulfite myths regularly, and I feel very grateful that I was able to bring this issue to a large audience, and hopefully teach some people some things. 

Posted on April 8, 2016 .

Wine Time: Domaine Guion Bourgueil

What smells kinda like fajitas and a dude you may date? This dreamily affordable Cabernet Franc. Available at DomaineLA. Shot & Edited by Josh Fuss. Music by Monster Rally.

Domaine Guion Bourgueil
Varietal: Cabernet Franc
Region: Loire, France
Year: 2012
Price: $14.99
Retailer: DomaineLA

I know it's been a million years since I posted a Wine Time so guess what, here is one for you! A dreamily affordable Cab Franc that smells kinda like a fajitas and a dude you could date.

Shot & Edited by Josh Fuss
Music by Monster Rally 

Château Flotis "Si Noire"

chateau flotis si noire

Château Flotis "Si Noire"
Varietal: Negrette
Region: Fronton, France
Year: 2010
Price: $18
Retailer: Lou Wine Shop

2016 has been wild so far. Between starting at Bon Appétit, going to Spain twice, hosting a two day wine pool party and turning 30, I haven't had much time to review much wine despite drinking enough of it to nearly kill me. 

Having a moment to sit here with the Château Flotis right now feels like a gift. The goal has always been to get off the internet, but the truth is there is a comfort in this medium that cannot be found in emails from my editors or scribbling shorthand into Moleskins in a vineyard six thousand miles away. I've dreamed of those things, and am so grateful to see it come to fruition, but still. This corner of my couch, listening to "Starman" on repeat without headphones on, without anyone to please but myself and no fucks given, is a pleasure. I can't say I didn't appreciate it before, because I have always truly treasured these moments, but it is that much sweeter now.

I probably should have chosen a white wine to review since I haven't since September, but I've had this French red that has just been sitting on the shelf waiting for me to love and I couldn't resist. I have very little self-control, especially when it comes to funky French reds.

Château Flotis is made by winemaker Katia Garrouste. The back of the bottle makes a point to say that her wines "reflect her unique perspective" but "aren't 'feminine' per se", which annoys me. I can't tell if they wanted to point people in that direction, towards the wine's subtle femininity or if they're trying to assure people that just because it is made by a woman, not to worry! You're still masculine if you drink it! Maybe I am jaded and tired and got a super lame email from a dude comparing photos I post of me in a bikini on my own accord to being exploited for my body, but at any rate, it annoys me. Katia is a badass winemaker with tons of potential, and it's great to highlight women making wine, but I don't see the benefit of saying the wine isn't "'feminine' per se". 

My heightened and perhaps displaced sense of sexism aside, I really love this wine.

It's so soft and light on the front, like a favorite, worn thin, vintage jersey t-shirt moving across collar bones. But the back is substantial, tannic and fiesty. It goes from fruity and flirty to savory and sexy so quickly. And the whole time, it is so well-balanced. There isn't a note out of place. It's like an Olympic gymnast doing a whole floor routine to a Shakira song on a balance beam. There are so many flavors that dance upon your palate, and it is incredible how linear they are while still showcasing so much finesse. 

Although this is has been a great wine to just hang out with on my couch, I would recommend eating with it. It's a bit acidic and gripping for drinking alone, and I wouldn't mind biting into a big juicy cheeseburger right now. Or cassoulet as the label recommends as the traditional pairing, but also cheeseburgers.

Alright, I have to go get ready for my life but know I love this wine and I love you. 

Tasting Notes: Christmas cranberry mom-pedicure color. Smells like peppered, strawberry fruit leathers. Tastes like the best god damn dinner wine I've yet to actually eat dinner with. Ah! It's so light while still delivering acidic and tannic depth. Make sure to let this breathe for at least thirty minutes, otherwise it is too tannic and acidic and not nearly as enjoyable. 

Ross Test: Wow, I am genuinely surprised at how well it went! Usually tannic and acidic wines aren't always smooth going down, but that vintage jersey t-shirt soft I spoke about at the front of this wine actually carries it down the hatch quite nicely! 

On Bon Appétit: What Happens If You Buy Wine Based on the Label?

marissa a. ross bon appetit

WHAT HAPPENS IF YOU BUY WINE BASED ON THE LABEL?

Apparently you get some solid references to the Ventures and Barbarella. But would you expect anything less from me? Click on over to read about these hot font-ed babes. 

On a side note...
HOLY FUCKING SHIT, IT'S REAL
I WRITE FOR FUCKING BON APPETIT

My heart is just continuously peeing its pants over this. 

Posted on February 17, 2016 .